The Rise of Plus-Size High Fashion: Redefining Runways and Beauty Stan

Fashion is a mirror of the times we live in. Trends evolve and cycle back, adapting to current societal needs. Yet for decades, the high-fashion industry has been ruled by a limited definition of beauty and underrepresented diverse body types, declaring “thin” bodies as the most desirable and worthy of attention, praise, and adornment.

However, times are changing and this narrow ideal no longer binds the industry. The push for inclusivity in the high-fashion industry is an effort that has been in the works for years now, supported by the body positivity movement. Designers, brands, models, and consumers alike are advocating for wider representation, demonstrating that fashion is not limited to a single body type but rather comprehensive of the vast diversity of the real world and real people. In doing so, they’re not only redefining runways but also reshaping global beauty standards.

Let’s take a deeper dive into the rise of plus-size high fashion and how the status quo is being dismantled one stitch at a time.

High-Fashion and the "Ideal" Body Type

Tall and slim figures have dominated the high-fashion runways for as long as the industry has existed. Yet this fails to represent the vast majority of women. According to the International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology, and Education, the average woman in the US is between a size 16 to 18 while historically, runway models have been between sizes 0-4. Young designers too were only trained to construct clothes for these sizes, with little exposure to designing for larger body types, whether it’s casual wear or flattering lingerie. This was rooted in a deeper, business-driven cultural bias against curvy women dictated by fashion houses in collaboration with media powerhouses.

The fashion industry achieved exclusivity by elevating this rarest body type, ensuring that the majority of the population felt excluded from the high-fashion narrative. Until now, plus-size date night clothes were practically non-existent, leaving most women with no choice but to "make do" with the limited options they had. But this exclusivity is now being seen as outdated and out of touch. The fashion world is slowly catching on to the demand for inclusivity, whether it’s with the intention to be progressive or drive profits.

Challenging Conventional Beauty Norms

The high fashion industry has undergone a significant shift in recent years, and we’re finally seeing plus-size representation on magazine covers, fashion spreads, and catwalks. Over the past few seasons, many designers such as Chromat, Christian Siriano, and Prabal Gurung have begun to include plus-size models in their shows.

Ashley Graham created history and became a household name as the first plus-size woman to be featured on the cover of Vogue Sports Illustrated in 2015. Other notable names in plus-size high fashion are Paloma Elsesser who has walked for everyone from Alexander McQueen to Fendi, Precious Lee who can be seen rocking Jean Paul Gaultier on the runway, and Jill Kortleve who has walked for the likes of Alexander McQueen and Chanel.

Media Representation and Its Impact

The body positivity movement dates back to the 1960s whereas the term “body positive” itself emerged in the mid-1990s. These were crucial years for plus-size representation in high fashion. However, both waves soon died down and the industry ultimately reverted to old, restrictive standards. But this was before the internet and social media existed.

Whether you’re a brand offering the comfiest athleisure or the stretchiest thigh-high tights, you simply cannot afford to ignore plus-size women if you want to make it in this busy, hyper-competitive fashion market. Social media platforms give a voice to everyone, including plus-size models, celebrities, and influencers with millions of followers, making them wonderfully diverse spaces with real-world impact. Greater online visibility translates to more empowerment, demand, and pressure on the industry to do better.

The Growth of the Plus-Size Fashion Market

Everyone deserves to wear high-quality, comfortable clothes that fit well and look amazing. Clothes should be designed to fit people—not the other way around. We all realize this now, and the numbers speak for themselves. The market for plus-size clothes was valued at USD 311.44 billion globally in 2023 and is anticipated to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.1% between 2024 and 2030. This proves that inclusivity isn’t just necessary and correct but also a smart business decision for the fashion industry.

Plus-size casual wear has become more accessible now than ever with more diversity in styles and sizing for different bodies—the result of a joint effort by brands, retailers, and consumers. This begs the question: Is the fight for inclusivity in high fashion over? Not in the slightest.

Current Challenges and Vision for the Future

While the progress made by the body positivity movement in redefining runways and global beauty standards is undeniable, there is much work yet to be done. The industry is still struggling to adapt and setbacks remain apparent.

A report by Vogue Business discovered that for the Fall/Winter 2024 season, there has been a decline in the overall size inclusivity in New York, London, Milan, and Paris as only 0.8% of the 8,800 looks that were showcased at 230 shows and presentations were plus-size (US 14+). This can be attributed to the widespread use of off-label weight loss medications and “skinny” being back in fashion, indicating some of the progress so far has been mere tokenism.

As long as the high fashion industry and the world at large treat body types like fashion trends, we’ll continue to observe this pattern. Real inclusiveness is recognizing that all body types deserve to be represented, loved, and celebrated.